Hidden cheesy gems

Dairy Industries International was invited on a study trip to the Iberian Peninsula, where tasting flavours from centuries-old traditions was the focus of an itinerary covering more than 621 miles in four days. 

Organised by the European Union for its ‘More than Food & Drink’ campaign, the trip showed how much Portugal and Spain have to offer beyond Madrid, Lisbon, ski resorts and idyllic beaches. In small towns and villages in the middle of nowhere, some of the biggest cheese productions in both countries are born, pleasing palates both nationally and internationally. 

From pear, pumpkin, persimmon and quince jams with dried fruits, to cheese made in the remote corners of Portugal and Spain, with the classic local wine as the obligatory companion to these cheeses, it wasn’t only our minds and notebooks that came back full from this trip. 

The first tasting began in Vimieiro, in Portugal’s Alentejo region at Monte da Vinha Queijaria, where around ten women produce an average of 8,000 cheeses per week. The secret lies in the simplicity of the ingredients and in knowledge passed down from generation to generation. 

With every producer we visited, the question “what about exports to the UK?” came up frequently, in the hope that Brexit had left some doors open so that these gems could be enjoyed in London. The answer varies from producer to producer. Susana Neves, business development & marketing director at Grupo RTM, in Alentejo, pointed out that exporting to the UK has been challenging due to the documentation needed and the legislation in place, which prevents the export of PDO raw sheep’s milk cheeses. Despite the challenges, Herdade da Maia, one of Grupo RTM’s factories, has used creativity to produce new alternatives with pasteurised milk. Interest in exporting to the UK is there, but the difficulties involved push other matters higher up the priority list. 

La Antigua Quesaria. Credit: Ines Coutinho

In the Castilla y León region, in a village that once featured in battles between counts and kings, only 1,600 inhabitants remain today, 200 of whom are cheese producers. Fernando Fregeneda Chico, director comercial Quesaria La Antigua, is proud to have been a shepherd for 25 years and says that sheep’s milk runs through his veins instead of blood. 

With every producer, the passion, dedication, knowledge and care they put into their business and products are striking. The campaign promoted by the European Union runs until 2027 and hopes to strengthen the relationship between EU producers and UK importers, retailers and food service professionals.  

• Ines Coutinho, digital editor, Dairy Industries International
  Keep in touch via email ines@bellpublishing.com, LinkedIn, X/Twitter

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